PHOEBE ENGLISH was founded in 2011 and has since focused on creating clothing with close attention to detail and narrative. The studio has dual roots in textile craftsmanship and reduced environmental impact: aiming to develop ways of working with design, and its surrounding systems, that better fit within the realities of our planetary boundaries.

Building on our work from autumn 2022, we have together created an outerwear capsule that embodies the principle of living within the means of our planet. Each piece is made from natural fibres that will biodegrade, and uses durable materials that will last for years to come.

Taking two of Phoebe English’s existing patterns, the Cloud Coat and Cloud Jacket, as well of a gilet of our own, we have re-made them in quilted fabric sticking to the principles learned from the Phoebe English team; namely ‘using up’ fabric which is already in our fabric archive, and using materials that are naturally occurring and therefore biodegradable. Additionally we have created a quilted bag that will be made using excess off-cuts of the quilted fabric, making use of a textile which otherwise would have gone to waste.

Horse Rug Cotton from the Lavenham Factory Fabric Archive

The cotton we have used is what we call ‘Horse Rug Cotton’ as it is the same quality we used in original Lavenham horse rugs way back when. The fabric is sourced from Chapmans in Manchester, England and is the ideal balance between durable and supple as it is tough without being stiff. We don’t make many horse rugs at the Lavenham factory these days but we still have a significant amount of the fabric in our fabric store which Phoebe selected to use for this project. Using fabric already in existence - we call it ‘shelf fabric’ - is far better for the environment than buying new which puts more strain on our planet’s finite resources.

Triangle Quilt / ‘Phoebe Quilt’

Quilting has long been used as a way to make garments more durable and increase their insulation properties. At Lavenham we have been making quilted goods for over 50 years and still quilt all our fabric in house. For this project Phoebe designed a custom quilt pattern, named ‘Phoebe Diamonds’ , a contemporary play on our classic 2” diamond pattern.

Traceable British Wool

The wadding in this garment is produced from 100% traceable British wool from hd® wool. hd® wool apparel insulation is fully traceable back to the farm upon which it is grown, sourced via the woolkeepers®, a bespoke quality assurance platform. hd® wool apparel are also actively supporting farmers to start the regenerative agricultural process, to reduce the environmental impacts of farming. The wool has natural thermodynamic properties which keep the wearer warm when it's cold, and cool when it's warm. Additionally it is biodegradable and does not release microplastics like its polyester counterparts.

Codelite Buttons

The buttons on this garment are made from codelite, a protein naturally occurring in milk. This milk casein is cured and hardened into sheets or rods. The liquid (whey) is used in the cosmetics industry, so nothing goes to waste. Milk casein performs like conventional plastic but codelite buttons are biodegradable, sustainable and traceable. These buttons are made in the UK by Courtney & co based in the Cotswolds, who are reviving traditional button making craft combined with new technology.

Made to Order

For this project we have adopted the Phoebe English way of making to order. This way of working can be a more sustainable way of producing clothes as it ensures supply meets demand exactly and reduces waste.

The Cloud Coat, Cloud Jacket, and Gilet are available to pre-order from Thursday 5th October - Thursday 30th November, for delivery in February 2024. Our usual returns policy will still apply. For help with sizing please view the product measurements on each product page or get in touch with our customer service team.

Creative Direction | Phoebe English

Pattern Cutting + Collection Development | @natalka.romanyuk @ewamburak

Collection Development | @abby_keul @clara.sagana

Production + Projects | @hacheisforhanna

Sales | @crimsondmlily

Styling | @peghah_maleknejad @saintlukeartists

Hair | @sarahjopalmer @maworldgroup using @avedauk @re_comb

Make Up | @crystabelmakeup @julianwatsonagency using @weledauk

Casting | @troycasting

Space Realisation | Sam Edkins

Lighting | @tmsmythologies

Music | @finbarprior

Photography | @asiawerbel_official

Backstage Photography | @lilyashrowan

Studio Team | @designs_bymillie @scransgender @scarlettbullen @larva__a @dash.b0nti Alice Hughes